I first heard about the Soweto bike tours from my mom of all places. She’d seen them along the main roads in the area and rolled down the window to ask what was going on. Which was great for me, only this was: haven’t ridden a bike in years. I’m hoping that the age old idiom “it’s like riding bike” holds true.
Lebo’s Soweto backpackers is nestled opposite a quaint park with benches and a thatched oasis. The walls are bright and colourful. confidently climb onto the bike, swiftly push against the floor and watch in horror for a moment as the wheel spirals out of control forcing me to momentarily doubt that idiom. My legs take over as my speed increases and I am thankfully convinced that it is in fact like riding a bike.
Whew.
The Tour
Dressed in a large, red rain poncho is our bubbly guide Sol. He hands us our helmets, welcomes us all to Soweto (and to others South Africa) and proceeds to give us our safety talk: “Keep left…Any questions?” Too excited to ask any questions, we head of up the road.
Our first stop is a local shebeen. Sol introduces us to ‘umqombothi,’ traditional sorghum beer, and carefully explains how it is made. We discuss the history of the area over a calabash of ‘umqombothi’. The alcohol content, we’re told, is so low that you would probably only get drunk if you sat all day drinking. Unbeknown to Sol, his theory was proved correct by the entrance of Malume. Malume, a tall, weather (or alcohol)-beaten old man. It would appear that he’s already enjoyed his portion. He interrupts Sol and proceeds to explain his own history in the community. Sol entertains him respectfully. We all laugh, ask questions and drink our sorghum beer. Malume tell us he’s been here all night and will probably stay most of the day.
We believe him.
The tour includes: a ride through neighbouring areas in various stages of development; a stop at Hector Petersen Memorial, elegantly guarded by a large Olive tree; a very tasty lunch of ikota followed by a much needed cold, refreshing drinks and a ride up Vilakazi Street to Nelson Mandela’s old house.
Our mood mirrors that of the children along the way who cheer us on with laughter and smiles. At one point, I spot Sol up ahead. He’s care-freely learning against a small gate.
“Oh, Sol, are we taking a break?” I ask.
“No, no just keep going?” he responds smiling.
“Um, why have you stopped?” I ask.
He smiles sheepishly and says “this dog here has a habit of chasing people on bicycles. So, when I go you go”. By the time he finished his sentence, I was already well on my way. That dog looked hungry to me and I didn’t want to tick around.
How fit do you need to be?
The bicycle ride itself is relativity easy going. Along the route, there are a couple of inclines here and there but none are unsurmountable. If you think that would be too much, you cold opt for the guides tuk-tuk tours, instead. The area is steeped in local history with many interesting details to learn about. The local community are huge supporters of these tours. So, you will meet many interesting locals along the route. That is why, whether you are familiar with the area or not, the tour is a must do. There was a great sense of camaraderie amongst this group of strangers.
With my bottom firmly moulded into the shape of the bike seat, there were loads of laughter and relief as we finish off our ride, huddle around a table and sip on some sweet tea.
Where to find cycling in Soweto
Backpacker profile:
Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers is situated in Orlando West, not far from the Hector Pieterson Museum and the famous Vilakazi Street. The establishment is locally owned and run. They run a whole host of activities in the area including bicycle tours, camping and storytelling nights.
Contact details:
+27 (0)11 936 3444
lebo@sowetobackpackers.co.za
http://www.sowetobackpackers.com
http://www.sowetobicycletours.com