A road trip to Hogsback is an amazing way to take in the soul of the Eastern Cape – beauty, culture and adventure. Hogsback is a small village in the Amathole Mountains of the Eastern Cape. Amathole means calves in Xhosa. The region is known for its lush forests, expansive views and beautiful waterfalls. The community in this rural area continues to take Nguni cattle to graze in the foothills of the mountain.
We spent a a couple of days in Hogsback on a road trip from Johannesburg to Cape Town. We really added it by essentially closing our eyes, spinning a hand and pointing to a spot on the map. The name sounded somewhat familiar but I wasn’t sure why. And my brain landed on “hold on, wasn’t JRR Tolkein born here?” Well nope, he wasn’t. He was born in Bloemfontein and left South Africa as a baby. Still, legend has it that Hogsback was the inspiration for the forest in the Hobbit. Walking through the forests here, they certainly are mystic enough that you could imagine that being the case (if he’d ever been here!).
How to get to Hogsback
Hogsback in the centre of the Eastern Cape Province. It is 30km from the town of Alice and Cathcart. The Hogsback Tourism website has recommended driving instructions from various directions. It is a combination of tar and dirt roads. The GPS may take you along Hogsback via Mitchell’s Pass, which is not recommended.
We arrived after a few days of persistent rains and it felt as tough it took ages to get through that last bit of dirt road. Even so, the scenery going in more than made up for those dodgy parts of the drive.
What to do in Hogsback?
This small corner of the mountains is the nature lovers dream. From waterfalls hiking trails and forest walks to meditation, art and shopping, it’s a lovely choice for a reset. It is also home to the Big Tree, the largest tree in the Eastern cape. The Yellowwood tree is a 36.6 meters tall and 800 years old.
The Hogsback Arboretum
The Hogsback Arboretum is a stunning garden of trees from around the world. There are markers along the way explaining botanical and common names, including five Californian Redwoods that are said to be over 100 years. There are a few various walking trails that will take you to different parts of the garden. It’s a magical forest walk with singing birds, blooming flowers and even a few roaming cows. Entrance to the Hogsback Arboretum is free of charge, off Oak Avenue.
I recently told a friend that one of the best parts of a hike is the anticipation of a waterfall. Plodding along the path and then listening quietly to the sound of a beating drum in the distance. The sound of rushing water gets louder and louder and still, no waterfall in sight. Then suddenly, the sound is overwhelmingly loud and a small shift in direction or perspective and boom. It always makes me so happy, especially if the hike has been pretty crappy so far!
The Labyrinth at the Edge
I enjoy walking meditations and of course a labyrinth is a beautiful use for this. The labyrinth at the edge is great because it has an intricate design (similar in design to the Labyrinth in the Chartres Cathedral in France), a gorgeous backdrop and is one of the largest labyrinths in the world. According to it’s website, the labyrinth “has a diameter of 29 meters and a circumference of 91 meters. The length of the pathway is 700 meters, and the total distance of the walk to the center and out is 1.4 kilometres.”
The Edge
A short walk behind the labyrinth is an amazing view point. I’ve seen so many different landscape views but I honestly believe this is my favourite one. One of those that literally feels like a snapshot or a painting. There was a gentle breeze, a few birds but other than that, just the incredible silence of nature. We decided to sit on the rocks here and eat our lunch. I thought we had quite bravely chosen a spot close to the edge for an optimal view. But of course a group of younger people walked straight past and had their lunch on the precipice of death.
The Tasting Room at Hogsback Brewing Company
Local craft beer breweries have gained traction over the past few years. These days you’re sure to come across a local craft brewing company in many of the small towns along the coast. The Hogsback brewing company, “uses the finest ingredients & mountain spring water to hand craft small batches of hop forward, delicious, quaffable ales.” At the tasting room and beer garden, you can taste their beers, meet some locals and have a bite to eat under the trees while taking in the views of the three hogs mountain peaks.
Eco-Shrine at Hogsback
The Eco-shrine at Hogsback is an art installation that seeks to “give artistic expression to the scientific facts regarding the origin of Earth and all life on Earth.” Diana Graham, the artist, was on site on the morning we visited and took us through the shrine with detailed explanations. I won’t try to explain it all but recommend you have this little tour when you visit. Of course, as with many spots in Hogsback, the eco-shrine is set against the backdrop of the beautiful mountain range. This shrine is art in the form of architecture, sculpture, mosaics and paintings. It’s an interesting addition to the day while visiting the area.
Where to Stay in Hogsback?
We stayed at the Arminel Hotel. It is a pretty hotel with incredible views, pool and family areas. Breakfast and dinner in a large dining room with a fireplace in the corner. A formal sitting with white tablecloths and centrepiece. It’s nostalgia took me right back to the wholesomeness of travelling with my family as a child. However, we spotted a number of places that offer accommodation in Hogsback with lovely gardens or incredible garden backdrops. This includes the Away with the fairies – nature lodge, which you have definitely seen on social media. It’s the one with the bath overlooking the edge with a gorgeous view.
Best time to Visit Hogsback
We visited in the summer and got caught in some of the summer rains. It was a bit muddy in places but made for a fantastic moody photo. The landscape was beautifully green, the flowers were out and the waterfalls were full. However, our accommodation had beautiful photos of the snowy days in the winter (June-July). It doesn’t always snow though, so making that booking around snow is likely just the luck of the draw.